Used Car Inspection Checklist for Nigeria

A proper inspection takes 30–45 minutes. Don't let a seller rush you. If they're uncomfortable with you spending that long with the car, that's information about the car. Walk away.

Print this checklist (or pull it up on your phone), tick boxes as you go, and write notes in the margin. If you're bringing a mechanic, share this with them in advance — even good mechanics miss things when they don't know what specifically to look for.

1. Documents check (before you even open the bonnet)

• Vehicle license / registration document — does it exist?
• Chassis number on document matches the chassis stamp on the car?
• Customs clearance certificate (if Tokunbo) — chassis matches?
• Duty receipt (if Tokunbo) — chassis matches?
• Auction sheet or foreign service history (if available)
• Insurance certificate, if claimed

If any document is “at the office” or “coming next week,” pause the inspection. Documents should be on hand at the same place as the car.

2. Exterior — body and paint

• Walk all the way around. Check panel gaps for evenness (uneven = collision repair).
• Look at the paint at angles. Mismatched paint sheen on one panel = repainted panel.
• Open and close every door. They should swing on one motion, not catch.
• Bonnet release works smoothly. Pop and re-seat several times.
• Boot opens cleanly. Spare wheel, jack, and tools should be present.
• Check the lower edge of doors for rust bubbling under the paint.

3. Tyres and wheels

• All four tyres same brand and roughly same wear pattern?
• Tread depth above the wear bar (test with a 50-naira coin if no gauge)?
• No sidewall cracks, bulges, or repair patches?
• Spare tyre present and inflated?
• Alloy wheels — check for kerb damage and cracks

Uneven tread between front tyres can mean misalignment, suspension damage, or just neglect. Factor in ₦200,000+ for a full set of replacement tyres if needed.

4. Engine bay (cold start)

• Bay should be clean but NOT freshly steam-cleaned (cover-up tactic)
• No fresh oil residue on the engine block
• Coolant level at MAX line, colour clear (red/pink/green, not brown sludge)
• Oil dipstick: oil should be amber-brown, not black or milky
• Brake fluid reservoir clear, level at MAX
• Battery terminals clean, no corrosion buildup
• No loose wires, tape repairs, or jury-rigged connections

Milky oil on the dipstick = water in the engine. That's a head gasket failure or worse. Stop the inspection.

5. Start the engine — cold start is critical

• Starts on first turn of the key, not after multiple tries
• No blue, white, or thick black smoke from the exhaust on startup
• No knocking, ticking, or rattling sound from the engine
• Idle settles smoothly within 30 seconds, no surging
• All dashboard warning lights extinguish after start (check engine, ABS, airbag, TPMS)
• Check engine light staying on = unresolved fault. Find out what.

6. Electrical and interior

• AC blows cold within 60 seconds — measure the vent temperature if possible
• Rear AC (if equipped) works on all vents
• All windows go up and down from all switches
• Central locking works from key fob and door pin
• All four interior lights, dome light, boot light work
• Headlights — high beam, low beam, fog lights (if equipped)
• Brake lights, indicators (all four corners), reverse lights, number plate light
• Wipers — front and rear (if equipped) — at all speed settings
• Washer fluid sprays cleanly from all jets
• Infotainment system powers on, Bluetooth pairs, USB ports work
• Reversing camera (if equipped) shows clean image

7. Test drive (minimum 15 minutes, including highway)

• Gearbox engages smoothly — no clunk into Drive or Reverse
• Automatic transmission shifts cleanly through all gears without jerks
• Manual transmission: clutch bites at a comfortable point, no slip
• Steering centres on its own after a turn
• No pulling left or right under braking (signals seized caliper or alignment)
• No vibration through the steering wheel above 80 km/h
• Brakes feel firm, not spongy — no pulsing through the pedal
• Handbrake holds on an incline
• Suspension absorbs potholes without metallic clanking
• No exhaust smoke under acceleration
• Air conditioning still cold after 10 minutes of driving

8. Undercarriage

• Get under the car (or use a jack). Look for fresh oil leaks under engine and gearbox
• No fresh rust on chassis members or sub-frame
• No bent or welded chassis sections (signals serious collision repair)
• Exhaust system is intact, no missing sections or fresh welds
• CV boots not split or torn
• Brake lines and fuel lines look clean, no chafing

9. After test drive — second look

• Engine bay: any new oil or fluid leaks that weren't there on cold inspection?
• Listen to the engine at idle again — any new noises?
• Check transmission temperature dipstick (if equipped)
• Read any pending fault codes if you brought an OBD scanner

10. Final questions for the seller

• Has it been in an accident? (Match answer to your visual findings)
• When was the timing belt or chain last serviced?
• What's the maintenance history — receipts available?
• Any known issues or upcoming maintenance you should plan for?
• Why are you (or the owner) selling?

A reputable seller answers honestly, even when the answer isn't flattering. Evasion or contradictions with what you found = red flag.

If you're buying from us

Every car listed by Quality Auto Signatures has been physically inspected before listing — we put it through most of this checklist before the photos go up. The detail page tells you what we found. You can also bring your own mechanic to verify our notes; we welcome it. See our current inventory or request a specific car.